This question reaches the heart of how much quality you need in your pressure washer,
which also affects the price tag. You get what you pay for or, as some say, you
only pay once for quality.
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If you are operating a pressure washer for less than five hours per week, you will
probably be satisfied with a less expensive model available in catalogs and do-it-yourself
stores. But don’t count on much service or warranty support.
If you are operating a pressure washer from 5 to 20 hours per week, you will find
some mid-range models that are typically identified by a direct-drive pump and a
bare-bones design.
For those who are serious users--washing for more than 20 hours per week--you will
be dollars ahead to invest in quality.
So how do you identify quality? Most pressure
washers, regardless of brand, have similar components. They have an engine or motor
that turns a high-pressure pump. Hot-water models also have a burner that heats
the water as it races through a coil made of pipe or tubing.
The quality differences are not always obvious, but significant nonetheless. Here
are the questions to ask in order to identify quality in a pressure washer:
Is it belt-drive or direct-drive? A high-pressure
pump does not turn on its own; rather it is driven by an engine or motor. Pumps
generally turn at 1100-1500 RPM while gasoline engines turn at a rate of 3000-3600
RPM (1450-3450 RPM for electric motors). There are two predominant ways to connect
the pump to an engine or motor: directly (direct-drive) or with a pulley and belt
(belt-drive).
Direct-drive pumps are more compact, helping to keep the weight and cost down. Today’s
direct-drive pumps have been engineered to hold up very well, even under constant
use. The weakness, of course, is that a pump turning at 3600 RPM will wear out faster
than a pump that turns at 1500 RPM.
On the other hand, a belt-drive pump, configured with a pulley and belt, allows
the pump to turn at the slower rate (usually 1500 RPM). The belt also dissipates
the build up of heat and absorbs vibration from the engine. The ultimate benefit,
of course, is that downtime is minimized and the pump’s life is extended saving
you money in the long run.
There are other features that say “quality” in the engine-pump connection. Dual
belts and V-groove belts, which are notched and cogged, run cooler and provide a
better grip for a more efficient performance. Some models mount the pump on a two-bolt
adjustment rail so it is easy to tighten the belt tension and keep the pump operating
at peak levels.
Is the pump tri-plunger or axial? All quality
pressure washers will have a tri-plunger pump, or a pump that is turned by a crankshaft,
connecting rods and three ceramic plungers. The rotary design of the axial pump
is known for being low cost, high maintenance and its life is typically rated for
no more than 800 hours. On the other hand, quality tri-plunger pumps usually have
warranties of up to five and seven years.
Does it have high pressure or high volume? A
little known secret is that there is more cleaning power in a pressure washer’s
volume (gallons per minute) than in its pressure (pounds per square inch or PSI).
A pressure washer with 2 GPM and 3000 PSI won’t clean as fast as a pressure washer
with 4 GPM and 2000 PSI. The first pressure washer delivers 6,000 cleaning units
(2 x 3000) as compared to the second pressure washer’s 8,000 cleaning units (4 x
2000). Despite what you see in advertisements or on a product label, volume is the
deciding factor and a quality pressure washer will provide the proper balance of
volume and pressure.
Is the engine or motor size correct?As mentioned
above, it is not uncommon for a manufacturer to sell the “sizzle” of high pressure
over the more important water volume. A reliable rule of thumb is to review the
flow rate along with the size of engine or motor. For industrial cleaning, you will
want a pressure washer with at least 4 GPM and is driven by an engine with a minimum
of 11 HP (5 HP for an electric motor). For a quality hobby pressure washer, you’ll
want a minimum of 2 GPM driven by at least a 5 HP engine (2 HP electric motor).
Is the frame or chassis solid? Steel is steel,
so most frames or chassis will hold up fine over the life of a pressure washer.
However, there are questions you can ask that will determine just how much quality
is in a pressure washer frame or chassis. Such as:
- Is the frame made of the heavier 10-gauge steel?
- Does it carry a long-term warranty? (Some frames are guaranteed
for life.)
- Are the seams reinforced with a weld?
- Is the paint an epoxy powder coat for long-lasting, all-weather
protection?
- Does the chassis have shock-absorbing feet to cushion the
vibration and to prevent the pressure washer from “walking” while in operation?
Is it safety and quality certified? UL-1776
is a regulation specifically established in 1995 to address high-pressure cleaning
equipment safety issues. It describes in detail a variety of features that pressure
washers should have to avoid injury, including safety relief valve, hose guard for
burst protection, warning labels, ground fault circuit interrupter, rupture disk
and specified lengths for the wand and electrical cord. It is believed that less
than half of all pressure washers are certified to UL-1776. Manufacturers who care
about quality have certified their equipment to this standard. Make sure the certifying
agency is a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (NRTL).
There are three other telltale signs of safety quality. A pressure washer will:
be manufactured in a factory certified to the internationally recognized ISO-9001
standards for quality manufacturing procedures, meet the Cleaning Equipment Trade
Association Performance Certification, and carry UV-resistant, tri-lingual (English,
Spanish, French) labels with operating instructions and warnings for liability protection.
Is it backed by a solid warranty? Quality pressure
washers will have at least a one-year warranty on the pump and frame (the more rugged
brands have up to a 7-year warranty on the pump and a lifetime warranty on the frame)
and a two-year warranty on the gasoline engine. Possibly, a more important question
to ask is how many trained, warranty service centers are there and is one close
to you?
Is the hose of high quality? Of all the critical
components on a pressure washer, manufacturers will often scrimp here to save a
few dollars. Shiny, thermoplastic hoses are the lowest quality. High quality hoses
are made of a rubber compound reinforced with steel wire. A hose rating should be
imprinted on the hose itself. A single-wire hose (R1) is typically rated for up
to 3000 PSI while a double-wire hose (R2) is usually rated for 4500 PSI or higher.
Despite their simplistic design, be assured that not all pressure washers are created
equal. Nonetheless, you can have confidence in making the right choice when you
ask the right questions.